Sometimes the best thrift store stories begin with nothing more than a shopper who liked the look of something. That is exactly how it started for one woman who appeared on Antiques Roadshow, in a segment shared by @roadshowpbs. She told the appraiser she had simply picked up a purse in a thrift store because she thought it was pretty. What happened next brought her to tears.
The show’s own caption sums it up: they never thought a “Tutti Frutti” clutch would make them cry.
@roadshowpbs
A Dollar Fifty and a Good Eye
The appraiser began with the basics. When did she get it? Probably 2018 or 2019, she answered. And what did she pay? A dollar fifty.
Then came the description, and it is a mouthful. The appraiser called it an absolutely exquisite Art Deco purse. On the front is a lovely little jardiniere decoration, a word that means “little garden” in Italian. The piece is constructed in platinum and set with carved rock crystal, rubies, emeralds, sapphires and old European cut diamonds.
That mix of colorful carved gemstones has a name. In the Art Deco period, this style was known as “tutti frutti,” and it was made especially popular by one maker: Cartier.
Is That Really Cartier?
The appraiser explained that the moment the bag came to the table, the first thought was whether it could be Cartier. There was a catch. The decorated piece is sewn onto the front of the bag, so the back of it cannot be seen to check for a maker’s mark. Instead, when the bag was opened, the appraiser found that the inside was signed “Cartier, France.”
The appraiser was careful and honest about it. Without flipping the piece over and seeing the reverse, it cannot be said with absolute certainty, but the belief is that it is very probably Cartier. That kind of caution is the mark of a good expert, and it is a good reminder for any of us: a signature in the lining is a wonderful clue, but the final word comes from a close look at the piece itself.
The Number That Made Her Cry
Next came the question every guest waits for. What did she think it was worth? She had hoped for maybe two or three thousand dollars, which, to be fair, would already have been a fantastic return on a dollar fifty.
The appraiser’s answer was far bigger. Conservatively, in an auction situation today, the purse is worth about $35,000, and the appraiser added that for insurance purposes the figure would easily be over $100,000.
The appraiser praised her as an “expert looker” and a “wonderful picker” with an incredible eye. She said it had been worth the trip, that she and her companions had been treated like royalty, and that she felt so welcomed. The appraiser, clearly delighted, said it had been hard not telling her the news for the last three hours.
What Is Tutti Frutti, Anyway?
If the term is new to you, you are in good company. “Tutti frutti” is the nickname collectors give to a style of jewelry from the 1920s and 1930s in which gemstones are carved into leaves, flowers and berries and set together in bright, fruit-salad colors. Cartier is widely credited with popularizing it in the Art Deco era, drawing inspiration from Indian jewelry traditions. Pieces from the great jewelry houses of that time are highly collectible, and the carved stones are a big part of the appeal.
Art Deco itself is easy to spot once you know what to look for: bold geometry, symmetry, clean lines, and a love of contrast between metals and colorful stones. Platinum was a favorite metal of the period because it is strong enough to hold tiny stones securely and has a cool, bright shine.
Auction Value and Insurance Value Are Not the Same
One of the most useful lessons in this story is hidden in those two numbers. The appraiser gave about $35,000 as an auction estimate and said the insurance value would be well over $100,000. These are different figures for good reason.
An auction estimate is what the piece would be expected to sell for if you put it up for sale today. An insurance, or replacement, value is what it would cost to replace the item with a comparable one from a retail source if it were lost or stolen. Because retail prices include a dealer’s markup and the time it takes to find a matching piece, replacement values are usually higher. If you ever do own something valuable, it is worth asking an appraiser to give you a written insurance appraisal, and keeping it with your policy.
Practical Tips for Thrift Store Treasure Hunters
Most of us will never find a Cartier clutch for a dollar fifty. But the habits that led this shopper to a lucky find can help anyone shop smarter.
Buy what you love. She picked it up because she liked it and thought it was pretty. Starting with your own taste is the best way to make sure you never regret a purchase, no matter what it turns out to be.
Look closely at the details. Heavy, cold-feeling metal, tiny stones set evenly, and careful hand finishing are all clues that something may be better than it looks. Open every bag and look inside. Linings, tags, and stamps can tell you who made it and where.
Do not clean or repair valuable-looking items yourself. Polishing, gluing or replacing parts can reduce value. If you think you have something special, store it gently and ask an expert first.
Get a real opinion. A local auction house, a reputable antiques dealer or a certified appraiser can often give you an idea of what you have. Many hold appraisal days where you can bring items in. And of course, Antiques Roadshow tapes in cities across the country each season, so there may be a chance to bring a treasure of your own.
Keep your expectations measured. For every surprise like this one, there are countless pieces that turn out to be costume jewelry or reproductions. The fun is in the hunt, and in learning along the way.
A Fairy-Tale Moment
What makes this story special is not only the dollar amount. It is the pure joy of a shopper being told that her instinct was right. She did not go looking for a famous maker. She did not have a plan. She saw something beautiful, paid less than the price of a cup of coffee, and kept it, perhaps never imagining what it was. Years later, an appraiser helped her find out.
The next time you wander through a thrift store, slow down at the little things in the glass case or the bag on the shelf. You never know which one is hiding a little garden of platinum and gemstones.
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