If you have been cleaning out a closet lately, or helping a parent do the same, you may already know the feeling. There are suits, dresses and coats in there that cost a small fortune when they were new, and now they are headed for a donation bin. A secondhand market researcher who posts as @virginiachamlee says that wave of donations is about to change what shows up on the racks at thrift stores, and most shoppers are not ready for it.
The creator describes studying the secondhand market for a living and says the biggest opportunities ahead may come from labels people have forgotten. In other words, the best finds may not be the famous brands everyone already knows to look for.
@virginiachamlee
Whose Closets Are Being Cleaned Out Now
The argument is simple. Most people picture “vintage” as clothing from the 1950s, 60s or 70s. But think about whose closets are being cleaned out today. Boomers are downsizing, moving to smaller homes, and passing along wardrobes they built over decades. That means more and more of the expensive clothing people bought in the 1980s, 1990s and early 2000s is arriving at thrift stores.
According to the creator, a lot of those labels no longer have the name recognition they once did. A younger shopper scanning a rack may have no idea that a plain looking jacket with an unfamiliar tag once sold for hundreds of dollars. That is how great pieces get overlooked.
The Forgotten Names Worth Knowing
The creator names several labels to keep an eye out for:
- Older Donna Karan
- Anne Klein, which the creator notes was designed by Donna Karan back in the day
- St. John
- Escada
- Older Ralph Lauren lines that are no longer in production
The creator says some of these clothes were beautifully made out of wool, linen and silk, with incredible tailoring, but they can be passed by because the label does not mean anything to a younger shopper. Knowing these forgotten names, the creator believes, is about to be one of the biggest advantages in modern thrifting.
A Little Background on These Labels
If you grew up in those decades, a few of these names may bring back memories. Here is some general context that helps explain why they are worth a second look.
Anne Klein was a New York sportswear designer whose house kept going after her death in 1974, and Donna Karan went on to lead the design team before launching her own namesake collection in the mid 1980s. That is why the creator links the two names together. Pieces from those early years often reflect the tailored, working woman wardrobe that was popular at the time.
St. John is long known for its knit suits, which were a staple for many women who wanted something polished that traveled well. Escada, a German fashion house founded in the 1970s, became known for bold, colorful, carefully finished women’s clothing in the 1980s and 90s. And Ralph Lauren has produced many lines over the years, so an older line with a label you do not recognize today could still be a well made piece from a house you do know.
None of that guarantees a particular price, of course, and values vary a lot depending on the piece, its condition and what buyers want at the moment. But it does explain why a shopper who recognizes these names has an edge over one who walks right past them.
How to Shop the Racks With This in Mind
You do not have to be a reseller to put this advice to use. If you enjoy dressing well on a budget, a few habits will help you sort the gems from the filler.
Start by reading the fiber content tag. The creator specifically mentions wool, linen and silk, and natural fibers are often a sign of better quality. Feel the fabric. A good wool has weight and a smooth hand, and silk has a cool, fluid drape. Then look at construction. Check that the seams are straight, the lining is neat, the buttons are sturdy and the hem has enough allowance to be adjusted. Good tailoring is the thing the creator highlights, and it shows in the details.
Next, check the condition carefully. Look under the arms and around the collar for stains, check the lining for tears and hold the garment up to a window to look for moth holes in wool. A small repair or a trip to the dry cleaner is fine, but heavy damage can wipe out the value.
It also helps to be flexible about style. A boxy jacket with shoulder pads may feel dated on the hanger, but a good tailor can adjust the fit, and many shoppers enjoy a structured look again. A skirt suit can be split up and worn as separates. A silk blouse can look fresh with a pair of jeans.
Finally, use your phone. If a label is unfamiliar, search the name and the style or era before you decide. Looking up recent sold listings for similar pieces will give you a realistic idea of what a garment is worth, whether you plan to wear it or resell it.
Why It Matters for Everyone
There is a bigger point here, and it applies whether you are buying or donating. If you are the one cleaning out a closet, it is worth a quick look at the labels before everything goes in a bag. A good wool coat or a well made silk dress may find a happy second life with someone who will wear it, and in some cases it may be worth more than you expect.
If you are the one shopping, the lesson is to slow down and read the tags. The creator promises to teach which names are actually worth hunting for, and the first few are a useful place to start. The next time you are at the thrift store, take a few extra minutes in the better dresses and suits section. Those quiet, well tailored pieces may be exactly the treasure that everyone else is about to walk past.
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